Friday, 5 December 2014

How to properly backcomb and How to do wiggly/wiggle plaits




 I thought I should put those two things on my blog as well, as they are a very important detail in my design. 

HOW TO BACKCOMB

  • don't make your sections too big
  • take a section, hold it tight and with a pin tail comb push down the hair and gather it
  • DON'T do this funny quickly going up and down motion to backcomb ( which I always used to do *cough* *cough* :) )
  • after you backcombed the hair should stand on its own
like this


  • if you have a person with very fine hair crimp the roots first and then backcomb the crimped bit
  • if your backcombed hair is too messy just comb it through slightly, but don't comb everything out!
  • also important->before washing backcombed hair try to get the most of it out before washing it using a paddle brush->something that maybe would help as well is using baby or children's untangle spray for hair



WIGGLY/WIGGLE PLAITS

Those plaits are quite easy. You first start plaiting like you usually would do when doing a normal plait but don't plait too tight. Then take 2 strands to one side and push them up on the one strand that's leftover,creating that kind of pattern


Which will look later when you do more of them like this


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My design- Step-by-Step



STEP-BY-STEP
-MY DESIGN-

You need:
  • Paddle brush
  • Pin tail comb
  • Sectioning clips
  • Hair pins ( a whole lot of them)
  • Kirby gribs
  • Heat protection
  • Hair spray
  • Hair wax
  • Hair straightener
  • Crimping iron
->       Apply heat protection and brush the hair àmake sure there are no knots
->       Section the hair in 3 sections, 1: front->triangle shape->for frizzing, 2:middle for crimping, take the section down to the ears->make sure the sections are the same on each side otherwise there will be problems later when putting up the hair, 3: back-> for wiggly plaits
->       Start with crimping all of the hair from the 2nd sectionàthen backcomb it a lot until it stands on its own J have to be able to create a ‘heart’ shape without paddingàwould suggest to make a lot of small sections for the crimping and backcombing to get a lot of volumeàwhen everything is backcombed take it over and secure it with hair pinsàtake everything right up to the middle so there is no gabàdon’t roll it in too much while you take it overàfix flying hair with hair spray and baby hair with hair wax






->      Now go to the front and separate the section in 2 rowsàto frizzing using the hair pin-hair straightener method(take hair pin and wind hair in an eight motion around it, secure by heating it up with hair straightener)àleave the hair pins in until the hair is cooled down


->       While letting the frizzing cool down go to the back and do the wiggly plaitsàHOW TO DO WIGGLY PLAITS: take a strand of hair and plait it like a normal plait, but not too tight, then take 2 strands of it to one side and push them up on the single one getting this kind of pattern



-> Do wiggly plaits around the back of the head in a random order




->       Go back to the front and take out hair pinsàtake frizzed hair apart and backcomb it if necessary àthen take it up and over and secure with hair pins->use hair spray if necessary




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My designs + final decision

 DESIGN 1

For my first design I thought of crimping all the hair and make it very voluminous. Also i wanted to add a bejeweled hair band/ necklace. Along the sidelines of the hair band I wanted to do very tight curls and do two big pin curls on the forehead.


I also had another design which is quite similar, where I just added two paddings on each side to get a heart shape.
But this version was still too historical, so I won't use it,

DESIGN 2

My inspiration for this design came from the Korean Vogue Editorial from December 2012 starring Park Soo Joo

I wanted to create a heart shape ,using very backcombed hair. On the sides I wanted to do several rows of single pin curls and the fringe would be backcombed and formed into a big kind of curl( I don't know how to explain it very well ^^) But as you can see it is way too close to the original. So if I wanted to use I definitely have to change a few things. Which I did :)


DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN 2

I wanted to keep the heart shape, but instead of only use backcombed hair I would crimp the hair first and then backcomb it quite a lot ,so I can take it over without using any padding. I don't want to use padding because of the simple reason to save my partner some time for the assessment. Also I want it to be big and a bit messy.The fringe bit I would frizz using the hair pin+ hair straightener method and the take the frizzing apart and take it over. But I still want the front bit to be big and messy as well. On the sides and back of the head I now want to do those wiggly/wiggle plaits. I think those plaits would give the whole design a very modern touch. I am still thinking about whether to use this bejeweled hair band from Design 1 or not.


DESIGN 3

I did this design a few times during lesson( you can find the blog post about it here) and thought if I add something modern in the back or use some colored ribbons it would make it a nice contemporary version. In this design I did a somewhat zig zag french plait at the back. For the front I created the heart shape by taking over some crimped hair over the attached padding and then do 2 rows of tight curls in the front from which you take the second row in loose curls over the padding. The first row of curls you position nicely along the hairline. I really liked this design and thought of using it as my final choice but here again it is still just too historical. 



DESIGN 4

For my last design I created a very round shape using padding and crimped hair. I would use all of the hair and cover the padding with it. In the front I did pin curls along the hairline and decorated it with a pearl necklace going along the forehead. I won't use this design because first of all I am not sure if I really like it and whether it reminds you of the Elizabethans or not. I am still very unsure about it:) 



FINAL DECISION!!!

For my final decision I will use the developed design from design 2. I liked design from the very beginning and it was already one of my choices. I just needed to make a few more changes as it was too close to the original. After I changed the design I liked it even more and thought the wiggly plaits would be a great extra.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014

Modern Elizabethan Hairstyles



To find some inspiration for my designs I had a look at other contemporary Elizabethan hairstyles. In the last few years designers have often used modern versions of Elizabethan hairstyles for their catwalk shows. For example Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Thom Browne. But you can find them in editorials as well.




CHANEL SS 2010


What's so Elizabethan about this hairstyle is definitely the heart shape. As you can see in the last picture they used a lot of crepe hair  as padding to get this enormous heart shape. Modern about this hair design is the fringe, because in the Elizabethan era fringes were a no-no! Also the huge bow is a nice modern touch. As well as the single grey strand of hair and the bracelet going up in the middle from the neck. 





PARK SOO JOO FOR KOREAN VOGUE DECEMBER 2012


When I looked at Park Soo Joo's pictures I immediately felt there was something Elizabethan about it:) The hair is very backcombed and pinned up in a kind of heart shape. You can see it the best in the last picture. Another detail that reminds you somewhat of the Elizabethans are the tight curls on the side. Being very messy and the backcombed fringe make it more modern.


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SS 2007



You maybe wouldn't think of it as Elizabethan on the first sight but the shape of the hair is somewhat heart shaped. A big extra is of course the blocked out eyebrows.

Again it's the heart shape that makes it Elizabethan, By making the hair big, messy and unsymmetrical it makes it very modern.


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FW 2013


This time it's definitely the pearls.
The cage around the head with those many pearls make it very Elizabethan as well as the pin curls underneath it. 


THOM BROWNE SS 2014


Apart from the makeup which already looks very contemporary the hair has a modern Elizabethan feel as well. The hair was backcombed quite a lot and at the back of the head some of the hair is being hold by a red with pearls covered hair net. Which reminds you of the Elizabethan Caul.
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Friday, 14 November 2014

Elizabethan Hairstyle on Ruby Part 2



Create an Elizabethan hairstyle- Part 2

--> has to be a full had 
-->do a bun at the back of head
-->it must be heart shaped

You will need:
  • sectioning clips
  • kirby gribs
  • hair pins
  • pin tail comb
  • paddle brush
  • crimping iron
  • hair straightener 
  • padding 
  • elastics
Again start with brushing the hair and divide it in 3 sections. I did frizzing at the front , then you have your crimping bit and the hair at the back would go into a bun this time. Crimp the hair first and do the padding as usual. To avoid the messy hair behind the padding this time ,I rolled the leftover hair in and then tucked it in with hair pins. Make sure both sides are symmetrical. My problem was that the padding I used was uneven so I had quite a gab between them. I moved one side a bit more up but there was still a bit of a gab left. I would then do the frizzing at the front with hair pins. Make several equal sections and wind the hair in an eight motion around the hair pin and secure it by heating it up with the hair straightener. While you leave it to cool down start doing the back. Comb the hair again and make into a neatly ponytail . Secure it with an elastic and divide the ponytail in four same sized sections. Backcomb from underneath each section. Take the hair and wind it around your fingers (hold them like a scissor so you get the hair out easily) and then when you have the size you want secure it with a kirby grib. Do this with all 4 sections and then take a hair pin and connect all of the 4 section with it at the bottom to get a nice bun. Make sure all of the section have the same height.
Go back to the front and take out the hair pins. At first I just took the frizzing as it was and put it over the padding but it didn't look that good and also we were supposed to create an 'actual' Elizabethan look. 





So I took the frizzing, pulled it apart and spread it all over the padding. It instantly looked more Elizabethan.



 This naughty gab between the two paddings^^


 The bun is slightly uneven. 


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